Charbroiled Opakapaka with Ginger

To make the ginger sauce: In a saucepan, simmer the onion and white wine for 15 minutes over medium heat. Put in a blender or food processor, add the ginger, and puree for 30 seconds. Add the olive oil and puree again until smooth.

To prepare the fennel: Preheat the oven to 350 F. Cut off any stalks and the hard outer layer of the fennel. Cut the bulbs in half. Put the fennel bulbs in a baking pan and cover with the wine and the water. Add the salt pork or bacon and bake for 15 minutes, or until tender. Slice each piece of fennel into three crosswise slices and set aside.

To make the watercress puree: Puree the watercress in a blender or food processor with the olive oil and lemon juice until smooth. The puree will be thick.

To make the garnish: In a deep fat fryer or a small heavy pot over medium-high heat, heat 1 inch of the oil to 350 F. or until rippling. Add the julienned ginger and cook for 10 seconds, or until crisp. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain.

To prepare the fish: Light a fire in a charcoal grill or preheat a broiler. With a sharp knife, score the skin in a cross-hatch pattern. Brush the fish with the olive oil. Sprinkle lightly with salt, pepper, and cayenne, and grill over medium-hot fire for 4 minutes on each side, until opaque throughout.

To serve: Cut the fennel slices in half. Place 3 pieces of fennel evenly around each plate. Pool one fourth of the sauce on each plate. With 2 teaspoons, scoop the watercress puree and form into 12 small rounded quenelles (football shapes), 3 per plate, and place quenelles between the fennel slices. Arrange the fish, skin-side up, on top of the sauce. Garnish with fried ginger.